arts from the Greeks, so did they, in some measure, their piscine
appetites. The eel-pout and the lotas's liver were the favourite fish
dishes of the Roman epicures; whilst the red mullet was esteemed as one
of the most delicate fishes that could be brought to the table.
With all the elegance, taste, and refinement of Roman luxury, it
was sometimes promoted or accompanied by acts of great
barbarity. In proof of this, the mention of the red mullet
suggests the mode in which it was sometimes treated for the, to
us, _horrible_ entertainment of the _fashionable_ in Roman
circles. It may be premised, that as England has, Rome, in her
palmy days, had, her fops, who had, no doubt, through the medium
of their cooks, discovered that when the scales of the red
mullet were removed, the flesh presented a fine pink-colour.
Having discovered this, it was further observed that at the
death of the animal, this colour passed through a succession of
beautiful shades, and, in order that these might be witnessed
and enjoyed in their fullest perfection, the poor mullet was
served alive in a glass vessel.