_Choosing and Trussing_.--Choose those that feel hard at the vent, as
that shows their fatness. There are three sorts,--the grey, green, and
bastard plover, or lapwing. They will keep good for some time, but if
very stale, the feet will be very dry. Plovers are scarcely fit for
anything but roasting; they are, however, sometimes stewed, or made into
a ragoût, but this mode of cooking is not to be recommended.
_Mode_.--Pluck off the feathers, wipe the outside of the birds with a
damp cloth, and do not draw them; truss with the head under the wing,
put them down to a clear fire, and lay slices of moistened toast in the
dripping-pan, to catch the trail. Keep them _well basted_, dredge them
lightly with flour a few minutes before they are done, and let them be
nicely frothed. Dish them on the toasts, over which the _trail_ should
be equally spread. Pour round the toast a little good gravy, and send
some to table in a tureen.
_Time_.--10 minutes to 1/4 hour.
_Average cost_, 1s. 6d. the brace, if plentiful.
_Sufficient_ for 2 persons.
_Seasonable_.--In perfection from the beginning of September to the end
of January.
THE PLOVER.--There are two species of this bird, the grey and
the green, the former being larger than the other, and somewhat
less than the woodcock. It has generally been classed with those
birds which chiefly live in the water; but it would seem only to
seek its food there, for many of the species breed upon the
loftiest mountains. Immense flights of these birds are to be
seen in the Hebrides, and other parts of Scotland; and, in the
winter, large numbers are sent to the London market, which is
sometimes so much glutted with them that they are sold very
cheap. Previous to dressing, they are kept till they have a game
flavour; and although their flesh is a favourite with many, it
is not universally relished. The green is preferred to the grey,
but both are inferior to the woodcock. Their eggs are esteemed
as a great delicacy. Birds of this kind are migratory. They
arrive in England in April, live with us all the spring and
summer, and at the beginning of autumn prepare to take leave by
getting together in flocks. It is supposed that they then retire
to Spain, and frequent the sheep-walks with which that country
abounds.
[Illustration: THE PLOVER.]
TO DRESS THE PTARMIGAN.