the more moderate should be the heat used. Conversely, the smaller it
is, the fiercer should the fire be.
When withdrawing the gratin from the oven squeeze a few drops of
lemon-juice over it, and besprinkle it with chopped parsley.
270—RAPID GRATIN
Proceed as above, with duxelle sauce, but the products treated with
it, viz., meats, fish, or vegetables, are always cooked and warmed in
advance. All that is required, therefore, is to effect the formation of
the gratin as quickly as possible.
To do this, cover the object under treatment with the necessary
quantity of salt, besprinkle with raspings and butter, and set the
gratin to form in a fierce oven.
271—LIGHT GRATIN
This is proper to farinaceous products, such as macaroni, lazagnes,
noodles, gnocchi, &c., and consists of a combination of grated cheese,
raspings, and butter. In this case, again, the only end in view is the
formation of the _gratin_ coating, which must be evenly coloured, and
is the result of the cheese melting. A moderate heat is all that is
wanted for this kind of _gratin_.
Also considered as light _gratins_ are those which serve as the
complement of stuffed vegetables such as tomatoes, mushrooms,
egg-plant, and cucumber. With these the _gratin_ is composed of
raspings sprinkled with butter or oil, and it is placed in a more or
less fierce heat according to whether the vegetables have already been
cooked or partially cooked, or are quite raw.
272—GLAZINGS
These are of two kinds—they either consist of a heavily buttered sauce,
or they form from a sprinkling of cheese upon the sauce with which the
object to be glazed is covered.
In the first case, after having poured sauce over the object to be
treated, place the dish on another dish containing a little water.
This is to prevent the sauce decomposing and boiling. The greater the
quantity of butter used, the more intense will be the heat required, in
order that a slight golden film may form almost instantaneously.
In the second case, the sauce used is always a Mornay (No. 91). Cover
the object under treatment with the sauce, besprinkle with grated
cheese and melted butter, and place in fairly intense heat, so that a
slight golden crust may form almost immediately, this crust being the
result of the combined cheese and butter.
273—BLANCHINGS
The essentially unsuitable term blanchings is applied in the culinary
technology of France to three classes of operations which entirely
differ one from the other in the end they have in view.